Veggie dishes can be a mere blip on the culinary radar of some of NYC's more well-known dining institutions, as I bemoaned in my last series of reviews (yes, I'm still appalled at Savoy). I never understood the incredulous looks I'd get from servers when asking which dishes can be prepared without a random animal part- after all, if your Michelin star chef has such vision and talent, shouldn't he/she be up to the challenge of creating a veg-friendly interpretation of a menu specialty?
And though it's even easier to just visit one of New York's many vegetarian restaurants, I've made it a mission of mine to visit as many NYC Zagat darlings as I can to see how accommodating and creative they can be with vegetarian cuisine and share my findings with my fellow vegetarians that are similarly determined not to have their lifestyle choice marginalized when dining out.
I've got two recommendations here for non-veg specific restaurants... albeit one might be biased with many a glass of sake... that may not have the largest selection of vegetarian entrees, but the ones they have are out of this world.
First up:
Lupa, a slice of Batali-Bastianich restaurant heaven in the West Village. Offering traditional Roman cuisine in a casual, rustic setting, Lupa (Italian for she-wolf, as you'll discover from a glossary on the back of the menu) has its fair share of seasoned
tonno, guanciale, and hearty bolognese-type sauces, but it never neglects- rather, it nails- the simplest Roman fare, the basics that are sometimes vegetarian by nature.
We started our meal with
verdure miste- a huge sampler antipasto platter with marinated olives, sliced brussel sprouts with pecorino, broccoli rabe tossed with ricotta, beets cooked with pistachio, radicchio with breadcrumbs, and sauteed squash. I usually shun giant appetizer platters for their overabundance of fat and greasy ingredients, but with fresh veggies gently cooked in olive oil with equally fresh, light cheeses, it didn't take much convincing to break out from my usual mold. For my main course, I chose a squash pansotti (the half-moon shaped ravioli) with sage. Cooked in butter sauce, the fresh pasta just melted in my mouth, and I was all too happy to savor the creamy squash-ricotta filling that remained. It might just be the most amazing ravioli I've ever eaten. We finished with a black pepper panna cotta with figs. The panna cotta was not particularly peppery, but I was more than happy with the vanilla-fig combination that was still not cavity-inducing sweet.
There are sometimes when simple is simply boring, but at Lupa, the mouth-watering flavors of simple is enough to make me a regular!
Lupa, 170 Thompson Street, between Bleecker and Houston, 212-982-5089-----
Dinner is infinitely more satisfying after you hunt for it. Of course by hunting, I mean bars and restaurants where there is a hidden door or secret upstairs/downstairs level between you and your destination! And sake bar
Sakagura is that hidden gem in Midtown East. One might easily be distracted by over 200 varieties of sake in this small restaurant straight out of Tokyo, but you might just as easily be swept away by Sakagura's extensive menu with authentic Japanese small plates.
Of course to be fair, we had to partake in both.
I started with a simple tofu salad with mixed greens and miso dressing. Sakagura was very generous with the chunk of tofu laying over my salad, and I've yet to have fresher miso dressing while dining out! My salad was soon followed by cold udon noodles with plum paste. The noodles weren't actually udon noodles at all, but the thin Thai-style noodles. Served with fish sauce on the side (thankfully) and a smear of plum paste, it was tasty, but there wasn't enough in this dish to make it as flavorful as it could have been. And honestly, after several premium sake samplers (Yuki No Bosha Super Premium was my favorite, with a really smooth finish and just a slight fruity aftertaste), it didn't matter. I love sampling new wines, beers, and sakes just as much as I do sampling new foods, and to be completely taken out of typical Midtown surroundings and brought into a little Japanese village where you can sip sake and chat, and perhaps have a few small bites, the experience overall was worth it!
Sakagura gets a few knocks for service- trying to move your customers to accomodate a bigger party isn't proper resto etiquette- but for the experience, you must give this sake bar a shot... minus the crappy pun that I couldn't resist typing!
Sakagura, 211 E. 43rd Street, B1 (between 2nd and 3rd Avenues), 212-953-7253